Shipwrecks

Our trip around Lake Superior would not be complete without a visit to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum at Whitefish Point, north of Paradise.  My dad loved Whitefish Point, both the museum and the lighthouse - oh, and the little restaurants where he could get coffee and desserts.  We arrived just before 10:00 am when it was quiet.  Since it was a sunny morning, we could look way out over the water and imagine ourselves as light keepers in this remote location.

Lighthouse at Whitefish Point

We learned something new about this place:  you can stay there in the Crew's Quarters building which has been restored and turned into a Bed & Breakfast place.  There are five rooms that you can reserve when it is open between mid-April and November 10.  We will definitely remember this for our next trip here.

Crew Quarters

The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum is small but packed with information and displays about the shipwrecks from the Whitefish Point area and other Great Lakes.  We walked around and read each story about the shipwrecks - it felt like we were paying tribute to the people who traveled our lakes in times of danger and the people who worked to rescue them and keep them safe.  The museum has very low lighting so it is hard to get clear pictures to share the bits of history on display here.

Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum

We traveled on to one last waterfall - the big one at Tahquamenon Falls State Park.  We spent quite a bit of time visiting both the Lower Falls and Upper Falls.  The Lower Falls visitor area has a great boardwalk with several viewing sites from which to take pictures.  It was sunny and not too crowded, so we took our time and took lots of pictures.

Lower Falls

The Upper Falls area has a very nice .3 mile walking path that splits so you can get close to the brink of the falls (slightly damp but beautiful) and you can get close to the gorge for stunning distance views of the entire falls.  Viewing platforms at the brink are at the top and 94 steps down.  Viewing platforms at the gorge are at the top, 116 steps down, and along a long boardwalk with several places to pause, contemplate and photograph the falls.  The Upper Falls day use area was very busy with lots of families and campers taking advantage of the lovely day.  I'm glad we started early - there was already a long line of cars waiting to get in when we left.

Upper Falls

 When we crossed back into the lower peninsula, I thought back about our journey across Canada and the upper peninsula.  It was a bit of an adjustment for me to discover that lots of folks in Canada actually follow the speed limits on roads.  I adapted quickly, but had to remind myself often to let up on the gas pedal.  As we drove south on I-75, we drove back into the "speed limit" of 5-10 miles higher than the posted limit.  Life in Canada and in much of the U.P. seems to proceed at a calmer pace.  I like that.  Maybe we can learn to incorporate that pace and feeling into our lives here.



 
 

Marquette to Munising - Waterfalls!

We drove down the Keweenaw Peninsula taking our time and admiring the Lake.  We stopped for a breakfast cookie at the Jampot outside of Eagle River.  This is such a delightful place and the baked goods are supremely yummy.

As we traveled across highway 41, I asked if we could stop to take pictures of Canyon Falls.  This waterfall is accessed at a roadside park and down a one mile trail.  It had been raining for some time, but the rain let up a bit so I was feeling confident that we could reach the falls and get a decent picture.  Silly me!  The trail was slippery rock and lots of mud and I was wearing sandals.  What was I thinking?  Dennis stopped at a bench and encouraged me to continue on the trail to get the picture I wanted.  

When I reached the end of the trail, I discovered that the best picture taking site was past the official trail and over a fence!  I got several interesting photos by climbing out onto some of the rocks at the edge of waterfall.  Then I walked back to Dennis and rode the rest of the way to Marquette with very muddy feet and sandals.  At the hotel that afternoon foot washing was the first task.

Canyon Falls

We drove out to Presque Isle Park to look at the rocky shores and the old and still-used ore loading docks.  Marquette is a lively and interesting town.  We found an interesting little restaurant, via recommendation, called the Steinhaus.  It held about 45 people and it was packed.  The food was German and the beer selection was diverse - very nice.

We headed for Munising Friday morning.  We wanted to take the Pictured Rocks Cruise and planned to purchase tickets for the 2:00 pm cruise and then take pictures of waterfalls before the cruise.  It was a beautiful sunny day (finally!) but cool on the water.  It was a great day for taking pictures.

We started with a visit to Miners Castle in the Pictured Rocks park.  We got lots of good images and some artistic ones, too, that we won't bore you with.  We then drove to the Miners Falls trail access.  Dennis opted to sit in the sun and chat with other folks because his knees were not up to the 1.2 mile trail with 77 steps down to the falls at the end.  The trail was beautiful and the falls stunning and I got in my cardio workout for that day in addition to 2.4 miles on the trail.

 Miners Castle - front

 Miners Castle - back

Miners Falls

Then, we drove to the Munising Falls access - a quarter mile paved trail that we could both handle.  Again we took pictures like crazy.  Dennis has a picture of this waterfall from the 1930's with his dad and his uncle standing on the ledge behind the waterfall.  The picture is black and white so I suggested that we tinker with one of our photos and put the two pictures together in a frame to show the difference over that time.  That's a task for when we get home.

Munising Falls

We went back to the boat dock and discovered that the 10:00 am cruise had been cancelled and the noon cruise only went out half way because the waves were so high.  We turned in our tickets for a refund.  In addition to being sad that I wasn't going to do the cruise, I felt like a wimp because I really did not want to risk seasickness.  Now, I will have to return to this beautiful area to take that cruise on a calm day.

Back To the Future

 Canada in the old Days...

This road trip, driving around Lake Superior, has been such an education to me.  I used to say that the reason I love visiting Canada is because it’s like going back in time.  Canada always seems more peaceful and a few steps back into a nicer, more pleasant time when people were polite and cared about others.  

We crossed in Port Huron and spent a couple days in Tobermory, Ont.  Ironically the hotel we stayed at had terrible wi-fi.  It was in a great location with a view of the harbor and a nice restaurant but the lack of wi-fi was an issue.  There is at times minimal cell connection and since we were in Canada we couldn’t use much data without incurring a large expense.  The point here is how different it is traveling today…. wi-fi and our digital life is important!

After a couple days in Tobermory we took the Chi-Cheemaun ferry to Manitoulin Island then drive to Sault Ste Marie…. great digital connections and still densely populated.

Driving north and after staying in Sault Ste Marie is when the wilderness encompassed us.    Our cell signal became sporadic, not that it was a problem… after all we don’t live on our phones …. But while traveling we usually access maps and travel instructions.  So it was back to paper maps and asking directions. 

The motel we stayed at in Wawa was nice… but a little rustic.  The room was basic and clean but… not your typical polished room you would expect in the US.  Yet, the wi-fi was fast.  And even though it was an old television set, we had over 100 TV stations.  This was true in every place we stayed in Canada.

So … Road trips have turned a significant corner in technology…. and information sharing, even in Canada.  Cell may not be everywhere but tech  is, either through wi-fi or cable/satellite.  Watching TV in  Nipigon (the farthest north of our trip) we watched all the same channels we see at home … in fact, sadly, we got to see Detroit news every morning about the everyday violence there…. Sigh….

Still with access to internet and media the world becomes smaller.  People that would, in the past, be sidelined from the digital world are becoming full participants in the digital world.   The clear challenge is for these world citizens to not become tainted by the materialism and decadence of the western norm….

It’s clear that there is a special energy here in Canada…… the people…. more inclusive, more caring, more diverse…. and celebrating this diversity and inclusiveness, IMHO the Canadians have surpassed the US in the way its populace is treated by the government…. (read health care)  ….. not ONCE have I heard any Canadian complain about their medical coverage.  This is counter to all the complaints I hear from US citizens discussing their next premium.

Our trip is now back in the states…. And I have to say that in MN and northern MI we’re finding the same caring, inclusive and genuinely nice people…. so maybe it’s not a country thing… but a country thing…

Never the less, road trips have changed, for the better, knowing that our world is a little smaller, diversity is a good thing and communication an asset.

Yes it’s like going back in time… and yet we jumped to a better future.

Around the Corner and into Michigan

I have to tell all friends who travel about the restaurant where we ate on Monday night.  If you are headed to Duluth, you really should check this place out.  It is called Scenic Cafe and is about 11 miles west of Downtown Duluth on North Shore Drive.  We had the special appetizer - figs simmered in maple butter with walnuts and blue cheese.  I could have ordered a second round of that for my dinner - it was sensational.  Then I ordered a salad of freekeh, haloumi and heirloom tomatoes.  It was delicious and light.  I was full but not stuffed - a perfect meal.  Really, if you are going to Duluth, stop there for a meal or a glass of wine and an appetizer! 

We left Duluth heading south and then east into Wisconsin.  Superior WI is the "twin harbor" of Duluth.  The road we took showed us a very industrial side of Superior.  We drove through a tiny corner of Wisconsin and then into Michigan at Ironwood.  I was feeling sad because it was very cloudy and rainy and cold.  I wanted to stop in the Presque Isle campground of the Porcupine Mountains State Park to take pictures of the rapids and falls there.  When we arrived, the rain stopped and it started to clear a bit.  We headed down the trail that told us the falls were 100 yards away.  Not exactly.  The 100 yards took us to the boardwalk and dozens of steps up and down to various overlooks of the falls and rapids.  I walked both ways to get as many good shots as possible.  It was nice to see the falls and the rapids and the river out to Lake Superior.  There were several other folks walking and taking pictures, but it was not jammed.  We also drove through the campground where I noticed that there is a small "generator use" area and a much larger "no generators" area.  It made me glad that we have a solar battery instead of a generator for our trailer.

 Presque Isle Falls

 Flowing through the rapids

 and out to Lake Superior

 We followed the Boundary Road through the park and out the other side near Ontonagon.  When we began our trip we were not sure exactly when we would reach Michigan, so I did not make any reservations.  I figured it was after Labor Day so we may be able to find rooms in the various small motels along the way.  We passed three small motels and noticed that all had vacancies.  We stopped for gasoline and turned back to the one motel that was right on Lake Superior - Superior Shores.  We took a cottage room for the night for a really reasonable price.  It had a stove and refrigerator and kitchen with all the utensils I needed to cook a meal!  Our next stop was the grocery store.  It was great to have a home-cooked meal complete with vegetables.

The thing we loved most about Superior Shores was that we were right on the water - and it was wild!  We had seen so many parts of Lake Superior that were in quiet harbors and had not yet seen a stormy lake.  That all changed on Tuesday.  It had been rainy and windy off and on all day and this section of the lake is very open.  The waves were huge and crashing onto the rocky shore.  The lake was our "white noise" at night and we slept soundly.

Loud winds and pounding waves from the Lake

Wednesday morning we fixed our own breakfast and headed off to Copper Harbor after a stop at the post office to mail Emily a birthday card.  Ontonagon has a cute little post office with a very nice post mistress.  Cities are fine, but I really like small towns.

We wanted to stop in Houghton to check out the A. E. Seaman Mineral Museum - what a great place.  It is part of the university (Michigan Tech) and has an incredible collection of minerals from around the world, but especially from Michigan.  The information about copper and iron mining (and the Detroit salt mines) was fascinating and the samples of copper were stunning.  If I didn't care about copper and silver, I could spend all my time looking at the crystal samples and the gems.  I realized how woefully ignorant I am about geology and the uses of the various minerals and mineral salts.  One of my favorite displays was the flourescent mineral display.  There are several cases of rocks and the lights go out while the narrator tells you about the flourescent properties of the rocks and highlights each display.  At the end of the presentation, you can study the glowing rocks until the lights come back on and they return to their normal appearance.

 This sample wouldn't fit in the car





We left Houghton and wound our way up to Copper Harbor taking the Brockway Mountain Drive and getting some pictures of the surrounding area from that very high vantage point.  We were once again able to find a room at a small motel.  We also found a new brewery in town and had a beer and a fun conversation with a guy from Indiana who is camping at Fort Wilkins.  The lake is still riled up and we are expecting more rain and wind for the next few days.

On to Duluth

On Sunday we got up and out early to begin our drive to Duluth.  It is about a four hour drive - even if we get to reclaim one hour because we entered Central Time.  We chose to take highway 61 all the way down.  At one point, around Two Harbors, the driver has a choice to stay on 61 or diverge onto North Shore Drive, which is old 61.  We chose to take North Shore Drive so our whole trip down was as close to Lake Superior as possible without being in it.  It was such a beautiful drive.  We had sunshine and warm breezes and the lake sparkled hazy blue in the sun; no large towns and beautiful vistas everywhere.  

Re-entering the U.S. was no trouble - they took us back without complaint.  The first stretch of coastline in Minnesota was along the edge of the Boundary Waters Area.  There were many rivers that emptied into Lake Superior and many small bays.  I practiced my new skills by converting miles into kilometers out loud for Dennis' amusement.  We noticed right away that gas prices have risen dramatically in the week or so that we've been in Canada.  We heard about it on the news, but we were still in sticker shock with price per liter.  The first gas station we saw was in a popular tourist area and the price was $2.89 per gallon.  However, the price around here in Duluth is $2.59 - still thirty cents more than what we last paid in Brighton.

Welcome Back

 We stopped to visit the Split Rock Lighthouse outside of Two Harbors.  There is a state park there for camping and hiking, but you can also just take a tour of the lighthouse and grounds.  It is all beautifully maintained by the local Historical Society.  The keeper's house is furnished with original furniture from the 1910 era including a state of the art wood stove with "built in" water heater.  The people who dress in authentic garb and talk about the various features were great fun and informative.  I've wanted photos of this lighthouse for awhile.  I can't believe it is located outside of Michigan, but we don't have such steep rocky shores.  I have to confess that I was mildly naughty and set a bad example by climbing on a low rock fence to get a better picture.  Lots of people followed my example and I took a picture for another family standing on the wall!

Split Rock Lighthouse

Fresnel Lens and 1000 watt Light

 

Keeper's House

 When we arrived in Duluth, we checked into our hotel and the woman working the desk told us about a new brewery (Hoops) down in the Canal Street area.  The whole area was jammed with holiday weekenders, but we found the brewery and a place to park (no mean feat) and tasted some delightful beers.  We had a chat with the owner.  It reminded me a bit of Brewery Becker because it was an old renovated building (warehouse) and the owner only sells beer and pretzels.  However, he has a "menu" of neighboring restaurants from whom you can order and a "runner" who will go get your food and bring it back if the restaurant does not deliver.  He also has board games for folks to play while they are drinking.

We went to Fitger's Brewhouse for dinner and had to wait almost an hour to get seated.  The food was really good and the beer was, too, but not as good as the beer at Hoops. There are lots of good places to eat and drink in Duluth and it seems like a fun place, for a city.  I especially like the fact that they put in a seven mile long river walk so everyone in the area can enjoy the lake.

We celebrated Labor Day by going to the Maritime Visitors Center.  This is a fabulous museum that was built by the Army Corps of Engineers.  They also built the aerial lift bridge in the harbor, widened the harbor, and dredge the harbor to keep it clear.

Visitor Center


 We loved the museum - I had fun captaining a ship from the mock-up.  I pretended to crash and got one little girl to laugh.  

 

Captain MaryAlice

But I have to say we were most impressed by the lift bridge.  It is an amazing concept, a working marvel of beauty and engineering. 
 

  Aerial Lift Bridge

Bridge lifting to allow boats through

 We have talked about this trip and agreed over and over that it is about the Lake.  We've seen beautiful waterfalls, and will see more.  We've seen rock and forest and charming villages.  But every museum we have visited is all about Lake Superior and the importance it has to our economy as a shipping giant.  The Maritime Visitor Center had a stunning display about the Edmund Fitzgerald and the Split Rock Lighthouse does a lighting ceremony every year to commemorate that fateful voyage.  There is no denying the power of this lake and its impact on the surrounding land and people.

Rocks, Water, and Food

On the way from Nipigon to Thunder Bay we had to stop to see two things:  Ouimet Canyon and an amethyst mine.  In most of the parks we have visited, we have stopped to see waterfalls.  Canada has many beautiful falls and we wanted to see as many as we could.  Ouimet Canyon has no waterfalls - just lots of powerful, mammoth rock walls left behind by the glaciers.  Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park turned out to be this tiny provincial park that is unmanned in the early morning and very quiet.  We parked the car and looked for trail information.  We discovered that the trail was also part boardwalk.  It was a circular one kilometer walk with two "viewing pods" along the way.  It was a cool, sunny morning just perfect for a walk.  As I walked, I imagined the forest creatures walking along with me and admiring the harsh, rocky beauty of the canyon walls and the watery blue vista of lakes beyond the canyon where the earth was gentler.

Trailhead

Geological Info

A Sample of the Beauty of Ouimet Canyon

The visit to the amethyst mine was totally different.  It is still an active mine - and therefore pretty loud.  The current owners took possession in 1980.  We learned about how the amethyst is formed and which kinds are rare.  We saw huge rocks with amethyst veins running through and some with jagged amethyst "teeth" forming one whole side.  Those would be pretty cool to have in your yard!  Of course, we picked up a few souvenirs there.  And then we headed toward Thunder Bay - it's a city, not a village like most of our other stops.

Dennis thought this was wasteful on the part of Bacchus

These souvenirs were too big for the Honda

 Thunder Bay is an old town that has gone through many changes - mining wealth, shipping wealth, and manufacturing wealth.  Some parts of the city look very old and run down; other parts are undergoing a dramatic renewal.  But, through all of this change, the people we met were uniformly friendly and helpful.

The two adventures we wanted in Thunder Bay were a visit to the local museum and a trip out to Kakabeka Falls 20 miles west of town.  The museum trip was informative and interesting with both regular exhibits and new, rotating exhibits.  The new art exhibit this time is a series of photos of people with tattoos.  Each one is accompanied by a story from the tattooed person telling his or her story about the tattoo(s).  The photos were great and many of the stories were very touching.  The tattoo exhibit provided a real contrast to the historical exhibits.

Of all the waterfalls we have seen so far, Kakabeka was the largest.  It is so dramatic, loud, and beautiful that I hated to have to share it with others.  I just wanted to take pictures and meditate with the falls.  I am only sharing a few of the MANY pictures we took.  We had a lovely morning there. 

At the top of the falls - peaceful?

 Right Side

 Left Side

The Full Majesty of the Falls

 Throughout our trip I haven't said much about food.  It is one thing I struggle with when we travel.  I have to have vegetables and fruit in good quantity in my diet, but eating on the road does not always provide them.  In fact it is an adventure - and NOT an adventure in new ways to fix vegetables!  The most common vegetable dish is a tossed salad - usually iceberg lettuce - or something deep fried - usually french fries.  In Canada french fries are ubiquitous and are often called "chips".  There are chip stands located in many small towns.

We had good meals in many of the places we stayed, but I was craving vegetables.  When we were in Nipigon, the farthest north, most remote and smallest town we stayed in, we were delighted to find the Edgeview restaurant.  It looks like an ordinary house with a large deck from the outside.  Inside, there are a dozen tables with chairs.  The walls are painted a pale yellow and large, colorful paintings by a local artist adorn the walls.  The menu is small and seasonal, but the best part is that each entree is accompanied by fresh, elegantly prepared vegetables!  That meal has allowed me to go a few more days without feeling deprived.  I really do miss cooking for myself, but finding good homestyle cooking has helped.  We noticed there are not many restaurant chains in Canada.  I think this is good, but I'm sure our very own U.P. also does not have many chain restaurants.  Maybe we can stay in a cabin and I can cook my own meals at least once.  I need to do more hiking or I'll come home seriously chubby.

 

Adventures in Rock and Water

Wednesday dawned foggy and cool.  I was ready for a long walk, so I took off down the riverwalk in Sault Ste Marie and had a lovely walk down to the Locks Park and back.  In addition to getting a good workout, I learned that a huge building we had seen the previous evening on the river was the Edison generating plant and is still operational.  The riverwalk is well maintained and scenic.  Like Detroit's riverwalk, it is a great way to let people see the best side of a city.

 Edison Generator

When we began our drive, it was drizzling and foggy and that cloudiness stayed with us almost all day.  We were driving from Sault Ste Marie to Wawa - about a two and a half hour drive.  We did not reserve a room in Wawa ahead of time because I wasn't sure that's where we would stay.  Since it was kind of dreary, we just drove - but the road construction gremlins were with us that day.  We experienced several delays.  The great advantage of traveling with no firm destination in mind is that delays are really not an issue (this is MaryAlice's opinion).  

I really wanted to stop and see the Agawa Pictographs in Lake Superior Provincial Park.  We have seen pictographs out west and they are interesting and moving and old.  It is hard to imagine that these "messages from the past" can last so long on a rock face.  When we reached the park, a young staff member cautioned me that this rainy day was not a good day for doing the short but difficult hike to the pictographs.  I agreed, but I still wanted to try it.  Dennis was not interested, especially after we saw the description of the trail.  It was really a stack of rocks with an occasional step cut in to keep the hiker from falling.  The rocks are very slippery in the rain.  I took off my sandals and put on my walking shoes.

Two pictures of the "trail"

The walk was moderately terrifying.  I slipped three times, but managed to use my walking stick to keep myself from falling - and then I reached the rock face.  I am not a swimmer.  The rock face goes straight up from a curved rock ledge in the water.  There was a 6-inch wide flat spot to sidle along the face and try to take a picture.  People who are swimmers might not view this as dangerous - true, you would sustain bruises and lacerations, but not drown.  For a non-swimmer, it's a whole different issue, especially if you are alone and don't have a helping hand to steady you.  Anyway, I'm proud of myself for doing it and getting some cool photos.

My reward - the petroglyphs

I also wanted to take some pictures of the scenic High Falls outside of Wawa.  We followed a few signs that pointed the way, but didn't really provide much info.  It was the oddest drive to a waterfall that I have seen.  However, we agreed that the ride was worth it to see this lovely waterfall.

Scenic High Falls

Then, we arrived in Wawa - a small town that has seen better days.  There were a handful of motels, some still had vacancies.  I suggested the Wawa Motor Inn and we went in and asked for a room.  Luck was with us - we secured the last available room.  The motel was neat and clean and quiet and had a dining room!  The food was homestyle and delicious and the breakfast the next morning was terrific.  It was a good find.  

On Thursday we had a fairly long drive.  We traveled from Wawa to Nipigon - about 4 hours.  The day was sunny and there was no road construction!  We had in mind to stop at two waterfalls, Augusabon Falls and Rainbow Falls.  The road - still on the Transcanada Highway 17 - took us away from the shoreline and back again.  We drove along through lots of rock and forests and lakes.  This stretch of road was unpopulated with only an occasional small town.  

Augusabon Falls is located outside of Terrace Bay.  We pulled into a small parking area and took a boardwalk out to a viewing area.  It was an easy walk to get some good photos.  We chatted with another couple from Toronto.  While we were watching, we saw a couple of hikers cross the river below the falls - great photo-op.

Augusabon Gorge and Falls

Hikers Crossing River

The Rainbow Falls has its own park.  We pulled into the park and paid the fee for the day pass and headed out to the trail.  It wasn't really a trail.  It was a boardwalk stairway that went down along the falls to a bridge over the river, so we could see the rapids along the way and the falls at the bridge.  The stairway was more than 150 steps, but we didn't have any trouble.  It was part of our daily workout!  We arrived in Nipigon in the late afternoon and checked in a motel that provided us with a basic room.  

 Rainbow Falls

 

These Two Travelers Gazing at Rainbow Falls